According to historian Lorenzo Huertas in his book "Chronology of Wine and Pisco Production in Peru (1548-2010)," the craft of "wine tasting," or mojonería, (taster trade), has been present in Peru since the 16th century. In 1595, it was regulated by Viceroy Don García Hurtado de Mendoza, Marquis of Cañete (p. 264).
There are two meanings for this concept. The first is mentioned in historian Eduardo Dargent Chamot's book "Wine and Pisco in the History of Peru" (p. 41). At the bottom of the page, it reads: "The word mojón (taster), means wine taster. It comes from 'mojar' which means 'to wet'." Cesar Costa Aish, in "Bohemias Prohibidas: Pisco, culture, and coffee," describes it as "mojoneros or mojones (tasters), because they would wet their lips with the wine or spirits produced" (p. 152).
However, in the dictionary of the Royal Spanish Academy, the reading is different. It means milestone or marker, and a mojonero is a man who surveys land. So, can it be said that a mojonero is a wine taster? I found the answer in the Océano Synonyms & Antonyms dictionary: "mojón synonym: pillar, post, stake, signal, indicator, limit, wine taster."
Likewise, reviewing Huertas' book, I found the six ordinances for the management of tasters in 1603. It is necessary to specify that this trade, was created with the intention of avoiding deception or adulteration. The mojoneros (tasters), were in charge of controlling the business of alcoholic beverages, and each city was supposed to have one. The ordinances indicated that to become a taster, a person had to be older, knowledgeable about wine, and have the authority to do it with the knowledge of the authorities. Anyone who swore in the Cabildo to faithfully carry out their craft was prohibited from participating in the wine business. In addition, they had to verify that the drink was not adulterated, charged for each bottle they tasted, and to avoid using cups from the establishment, they brought their own.
It's interesting what Huertas mentions about the mojoneros who came from Spain. These wine experts came from different regions of the country and developed their own measurement or plurality of criteria. This caused problems when evaluating wines.
Currently, this occurs in Pisco contests where tasters from various regions of Peru gather. Producers, sommeliers, engineers, winemakers, etc. participate, each with their own criteria, although in this case, there would be no problem because the International Organization of Vine and Wine "OIV" regulations are quite clear.
There's a table of 7 tasters, each from different regions. The evaluation is based on our A.O. Pisco. The criteria, conclusions, and majority scores are detailed. It's imperative to act strictly at the tasting tables to not allow any opinions or gestures from the tasters before completing the evaluation and delivering their results. Any of them would undermine impartiality. At this point, the table coordinator plays a fundamental role as the person in charge of ensuring compliance with the competition's tasting regulations. Always responsibly.
Until next time!
By Livio Pastorino Wagner
Sommelier, Specialist, and Pisco Taster
Registration: CRDO-PISCO 2020 RCO-034-2011
@elmagozurdo
Pisco & music
Cocktail magazine Edition No.35 December 03 / 2020
Spanish version
December 2020
Translation assistance was provided by a language AI translation tool
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