In the land of Pisco... What is artisanal Pisco?

 Cocktail magazine Edition No.43 August  2021



It's often heard that artisanal Pisco is sold, but what does that mean? We understand that this term refers to products made with traditional or manual techniques, without any industrial intervention. However, the production of Pisco requires a master distiller to be present during the hours-long distillation process. Regardless of the size of the distillery, distillation is done in batches, and there will always be someone in charge of the preparation.

So, if all distilleries produce Pisco with direct labor, should they be called artisanal? I believe not, as the designation is more related to production than the method of production in the distillery. While it's true that all Pisco is made by hand, when there is a substantial minority of production, Pisco should be considered artisanal. This could be added to the genealogical heritage behind the drink. Many master distillers don't need to be oenologists to prepare any spirits, relying on the teachings received by family tradition. Making each bottle a unique object. Defining this issue is necessary, as one of the requirements for participating in the National Pisco Contest (2019) was to guarantee a stock of one thousand liters for each variety. Nowadays, this amount has been reduced to 600, opening the doors to more producers.


Let us not forget that we have more than 650 authorizations to use the Pisco Appelation of Origin. And that most of them are artisanal, both medium and small producers. In addition to this clarification, It should be noted that in the current Regulation of the Denomination of Origin Pisco, there is no category for artisanal pisco.

I would like to answer something that I'm constantly asked: the differences between Pisco and Chilean distillate. First, the minimum alcohol content. In the Chilean classification, it's considered 30° traditional, 35° special, 40° reserved, and 42° in large distillate. Unlike Pisco, which must always be made from 38° to 48°. Second, the distinctive use of strains. In the case of Chile, they work with Moscatel de Austria and Pedro Jiménez (the least aromatic); with Moscatel Rosada, Torontel, and Moscatel de Alejandría (the most aromatic). Whereas in Peru, we use 8 varieties for Pisco: Quebranta, Mollar, Negra Criolla & Uvina (less aromatic); as well as Italia, Torontel, Moscatel, and Albilla (aromatic). Third, the legal demarcation of bottling. The spirit must be bottled in the same production area before January 31 of the following year's harvest. In contrast, Peruvian regulations state that Pisco must be bottled and reserved for three months before distribution. Finally, the distillation process.

Chilean distillate has three types: a) transparent, which, after a 60-day rest, goes through the process of blending and dilution with demineralized water (it's forbidden to hydrate Pisco); b) aged: after resting, it undergoes an active wood aging process (American or French oak, of one and several uses), before proceeding to blending and dilution; and c) matured: where wood aging is more prolonged. In contrast, Pisco isn't aged, has no contact with wood, is clear, colorless, transparent, and brilliant.

In conclusion, the substantial differences between Pisco and distillate are: hydration, double distillation, and wood aging. It's clear that Chile also produces transparent distillates, but as has been explained, they should not be confused with Pisco in any way.


Until next time!



By Livio Pastorino Wagner
Sommelier, Specialist, and Pisco Taster
Registration: CRDO-PISCO 2020 RCO-034-2011
@elmagozurdo


Pisco & music




Posted in Cocktail magazine Edition No..43  August 10 / 2021


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August 2021






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