Pisco is not liquor; it’s ‘firewater

 From the file...

"I'm sharing with you this interview that was conducted with me last month for the online magazine Livinginperu.com."



"Tasting Pisco is all about training your senses to identify its different components," says Livio Pastorino Wagner, editor of the online magazine "El Pisco es del Perú." "This is a skill that can be taught, and I believe that every Peruvian should learn to recognize a good Pisco."

In the 1990s, Pastorino began working in the Pampa de Villacurí in Ica, where he cultivated asparagus. It was during this time that he had his first real experience with Pisco. "Every Saturday, the workers brought unlabeled Pisco bottles for their personal consumption and shared some with me." He recalls being pleasantly surprised by the excellent quality of the beverage. These were people with limited resources, yet they produced fantastic Pisco. "In the '90s, Pisco of this caliber was unheard of in Lima."

A fellow worker in Villacurí suggested that Livio join him in planting quebranta grapes for Pisco production. They cultivated 8-10 hectares of grapes, and in 1993, they produced their first Pisco in Gaudalupe, Ica. They made it in the traditional way, which involved stomping on the grapes and storing them in jars called "botijas." "Pisco, unlike beer, is something you can drink while doing other tasks and continue with your day without any problem," Pastorino explains. "In fact, the workers in this vineyard had the custom of drinking Pisco at 7 or 8 in the morning as they worked the fields."

Their first production yielded 300 gallons of Pisco, and the workers were compensated with a portion of the crop. "I don't know if it was good Pisco because back then, I didn't know what I know now," Livio confesses. He proudly adds that he would serve his own Pisco to friends when they visited.

In 2001, he retired from Pisco and agricultural production, but he continued to attend Pisco Festivals. In 2006, his business partner proposed the idea of creating an online magazine called "El Pisco es del Perú." By December of that year, they launched the first online edition. "The magazine was well-received, and now we have around 4000 subscribers in 60 different countries. Pisco is somewhat underground in Peru, and sadly, many people do not appreciate what we, as a country, possess."

"There's a common and recurring mistake in the media: they often refer to Pisco as liquor. We, who love Pisco, want to teach people that it is not a liquor but a distilled alcoholic drink or 'firewater,'" states Pastorino with conviction. "I even recently posted it on my Facebook and Twitter so that people will see it," he laughs.

"Our goal with this magazine is to spread the culture of Pisco. We want Peruvians to be able to discern a truly good Pisco. This project isn't primarily about profit; we just have a deep love for Pisco and aim to share our passion with other Pisco enthusiasts." He mentions that the support of people who write to the magazine is what keeps them going. He's even started writing personal articles for the magazine, although he never intended to. "My webmaster made me do it," he jokes.

Shortly after launching the monthly e-magazine, they approached Soledad Marroquín, director of the Instituto del Vino y del Pisco (IDVIP) at Universidad San Martín, to present the idea of the magazine. She insisted they take a course on Pisco tasting and sampling, which they did. They also received endorsements from the IDVIP and Le Cordon Bleu. After completing the course in 2008, they created the blog nochesdecata.blogspot.com, a practical guide to choosing the right Pisco.

Livio and many other collaborators have recently started hosting an event called "Pisco Peru: 400 Years of History and Tradition," primarily offering guided tastings for those interested. The first event took place in June of this year, followed by a second in September, both at the restaurant Madeira. "We worked with the best Piscos," says Pastorino. "They were first tasted by our panel, and then they were used in the guided tasting." Their goal is to host one guided tasting every month over the next year to promote Pisco culture.

We asked Livio to share a few of his tips for tasting and enjoying Pisco with our readers. Here are a few: 

-Pisco Sour must be prepared with good Pisco. Poor-quality Pisco will give you a hangover.

-When dining at a restaurant, request a variety of Pisco options (there are 11) on the menu so that restaurants are encouraged to offer a wider selection, and people are exposed to Pisco culture.

-Pisco should be transparent, and you should be able to taste its fruity notes when you drink it.

-Try making your own Pisco cocktails; the easiest (and Livio's favorite) is the Chilcano.

For more about Livio and his efforts to promote Pisco, visit his blog or his monthly magazine.


By Diana Schwalb from Livinginperu


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October 2009


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