Atypical Pisco?

 Cocktail magazine Edition No 22 February  2019

Some time ago, during a national Pisco contest, a sample of amber-colored Pisco was presented. The table coordinator called the Director of Tasting to inform that this sample was outside the norm, atypical, and would not be evaluated. According to the Royal Spanish Academy dictionary, atypical means "That which, by its characteristics, deviates from representative models or known types." It was the only time I saw a sample disqualified, and rightly so, as the Regulations of the Pisco Appelation of Origin in Article 7.1 Organoleptic Requirements state that Pisco must have a clear, colorless, transparent & bright appearance.

The issue of whether a Pisco is atypical or not is worth considering. In the 2009 OIV Standards for International Wine and Spirits Competitions of Vitivinicultural Origin, the word atypical does not appear anywhere. Moreover, all vitivinicultural spirits are evaluated equally, regardless of whether they are aged, white or amber-colored.

I believe that in regional & national contests, before starting the tasting, we should discuss the topic with the table coordinator, noting that the table is composed of 5 expert tasters. If, after evaluation, two or more tasters consider a sample to be atypical, for example: a Pisco Uvina with aromas of Italia grape (which is not correct), the table coordinator should ask the other tasters for their opinion. If everyone agrees unanimously to disqualify the sample, then it should be disqualified. If anyone disagrees, the tasting sheets with the scores should be handed in, and the evaluation should continue with the next sample.

The issue is complicated because we may be unjust to the sample and, therefore, to the producer. It's important to remember that Piscos must undergo rigorous chemical analysis before being presented in regional or national contests. In this case, it ends up being disqualified due to organoleptic factors.

The most sensible approach is to reach a consensus at the tasting table. Those who don't agree with the typicality will give scores below 80, while those who agree and don't find any defects in the Pisco will give scores above 80. As we cannot exceed 7 points (either up or down) to stay within the range, according to the OIV Standard, lower scores will pull higher scores, disqualifying the sample. Although it may be possible for the sample to score 80 points in the regional contest and enter next step, the national contest, in my experience, the chances of that Pisco winning a medal are very remote.

One of the pending tasks for tasters is to avoid using the word atypical, especially in the case of Uvina Piscos. They should hold workshops with the best Uvina Pisco samples, looking to remove or add descriptors. There seems to be confusion, and we may be biased in our assessments by comparing this Pisco variety to others. This is not fair, and we need to find a reference point that is repeated in the best Uvina Piscos. Enjoy pisco responsibly.

Til next time!

By Livio Pastorino Wagner
Sommelier, Specialist, and Pisco Taster
Registration: CRDO-PISCO 2020 RCO-034-2011
@elmagozurdo

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Cocktail magazine Edition No 22 February 19 / 2018

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February 2019

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