Where does the word Acholado come from? There are several stories about it, but the one I like the most is from the great Pisco cocktail maker, Bartender Hans Hilburg. He mentions that during the grape harvest on the old estates, the owners divided the bunches into first, second, and third, leaving the last for picking. It was the workers or "cholos," as they were called, who were left with this part of the harvest. The next day, they went over all the vines and collected the bunches to take them to the "office," where the distillate is made. It turned out to be an exquisite blend, and when the owners tried it, they realized that the grape mixtures offered Piscos of extraordinary quality. Therefore, they decided to name this combination "Acholado" in English, meaning "blend."
What does the current Regulation of the Pisco Appelation of Origin say? Acholados are the blend of the less aromatic Pisco grape varieties with the most aromatic ones, as well as the blend of Piscos and fresh or fermented musts of different Pisco grapes, which gives us endless possibilities to make them. This is where the master distiller will use their knowledge and creativity to achieve the best mix.
The truth is that we have underestimated this type of Pisco; we don't give it the value it really deserves. Its richness is reflected not only in the word "Acholado" that identifies us but also in the name "Pisco," which is impossible not to recognize as Peruvian. This is where we must work to vindicate its importance.
I have heard that these drinks are the product of a blend that the master distiller didn't like, and to improve it, they blended several Piscos from their winery. The regulation does not prohibit it; Acholados are one of our many strengths, and we must spread the word. If we analyze it, in most similar distillates, blending is not allowed.
Opinions are divided in tastings. Some consider that this type of Pisco should not participate in National Contests. The questions that arise are: How do we evaluate it? Based on the varieties? What should we perceive during the tasting? We can know exactly how many and which varieties the producer has used. Remember that there's no limit to blending; all 8 Pisco grapes can be used, with one exception: the Uvina Pisco can only be produced in Lunahuana, Pacaran, and Zuñiga in Cañete. That means an Acholado of 8 grapes could only be made in those three districts.
Let's go back to the question of what the parameters are for evaluating this type of Pisco. My reference: the sample must be free of defects, correct, balanced, and I must find at least two aromas, one of a less aromatic grape and the second with more aroma. It could also be the other way around; the intensity of the aromas does not necessarily play in favor or against. This, in the end, is my hedonistic opinion, and based on these parameters, I evaluate and give my score. To conclude, I want to ask you a question: Should we keep tasting Acholado Piscos in contests? Send me your opinions at liviopw@hotmail.com Link to the current Regulation of the Pisco Appelation of Origin Enjoy pisco responsibly.
Until next time!
By Livio Pastorino Wagner
Sommelier, Specialist, and Pisco Taster
Registration: CRDO-PISCO 2020 RCO-034-2011
@elmagozurdo
Pisco & music
Posted in Cocktail magazine Edition No.34 November 04 / 2020
Spanish version
November 2020
Translation assistance was provided by a language AI translation tool
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