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We already know that according to the current regulations of the Pisco Appelation of Origin, Pisco can only be produced in Tacna, Moquegua, Arequipa, Ica & Lima. Additionally, our 8 Pisco grapes are: quebranta, mollar, negra criolla, uvina, italia, torontel, moscatel, and albilla. This time, I'm going to give my opinion on the pure Piscos made from different grape varieties, indicating the Pisco producing region they come from.
Whenever I'm asked, "Which Pisco is the best?" My answer is always the same: "The one you like is the best!" This reminds me of a question that was asked of the President of Chile, Sebastián Piñera, in Peru: "Who owns Pisco?" His response was, "The person who buys it, pays for it, and drinks it..." I liked the response.
Returning to the topic, each Pisco producing region offers different climates, soils, and geography. For example, we know that the Ica region is the largest producer of quebranta grapes. In my opinion, the best Piscos of this variety are produced there, fresh, generous in alcohol, with aromas of quebranta grapes, warm and powerful.
Regarding the mollar grape, which has low production, it's a variety that is often confused with the quebranta grape. I have found very good mollar Piscos in the Quilmana-Cañete-Lima district.
The Negra Criolla (Black Creole), a rustic grape that arrived in the sixteenth century, in my opinion, the best examples are from Caraveli-Arequipa, with herbaceous, woody sensations that recall the vine stem and the countryside, rustic Piscos. Those from Ica, Tacna, and Moquegua follow this line, although the latter region has a Great Gold Medal Mosto Verde Negra Criolla, try it.
The Uvina is one of the Pisco grapes within the Pisco A.O. that can only be produced in three districts of Cañete-Lima: Pacaran, Zuñiga, and Lunahuana. I suggest appreciating these Piscos in situ; my favorites are from the three districts, each with its own characteristic.
With grape Italy, I have my disagreements. I like the ones from Cañete, Santa Cruz de Flores, very aromatic & explosive. However, in Ica, they also produce excellent italias, more subtle and elegant. Further south, those from Majes in Arequipa, Moquegua & Tacna also have their own. Nonetheless, I surrender to the aromas of the italias from Cañete, that's Pisco, versatile, try them and see which one you like best.
The torontel (muscat), is another of my favorites; it has its place in the plains of the Ocucaje district in Ica. In my opinion, the best torontels in Peru are made there.
The moscateles (muscats), stay in Arequipa, from Caraveli, Majes, Vítor, La Joya, etc. I have tasted delights from that region, well-structured, balanced & elegant. It's not for nothing that Moscatel Piscos are called the Sophia Loren of Pisco, due to their elegance and well-defined floral and spicy sensations.
In Lima, the albilla grape shows its subtlety in citrus and chamomile aromas, although I cannot fail to mention that in Ica I have had the opportunity to taste very good albilla grapes. It's not a very common variety, mostly used to make Pisco Acholado (Blended), so don't miss the chance to try it.
Lastly, in all of the Pisco-producing regions, 7 of the 8 grape varieties can be cultivated & surely each one will show us completely different characteristics. This gives value to our National Cultural Heritage "Pisco". Enjoy pisco responsibly.
Til next time!
by Livio Pastorino Wagner
Sommelier, Specialist, and Pisco Taster
Registration: CRDO-PISCO 2020 RCO-034-2011
@elmagozurdo
Pisco & music
Cocktail magazine Edition No 31 August 04 / 2020
spanish version
August 2020
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