Posted in Cocktail magazine No. 06 April 15, 2016
I was invited to the Indecopi meeting (authority responsible for the implementation & enforcement of competition policies in Peru), on the new proposal to modify the Pisco Appellation of Origin Regulation, there are some important points in this modification that I would like to discuss: Is pisco a wine spirit or a grape spirit? This must be completely settled. Another point is imported yeasts, should producers used or not? Currently there're producers
who are using them, which we detect in some cases in the tastings (artificial aromas that remember us tutti frutti). It's also important to clarify this. Engr. Lyris Monasterio indicated that it would be best if there were companies working with native yeasts so that they could be sold as is done in the case of winemaking.
Regarding the case of green must pisco, we ask again, at what point is green must considered to be elaborated? Point 4.2 of the proposed modification of the regulations states: "For the production of green must pisco, it is established that the semi-dry wine must be in a density range between 1,029 and 1,036, which is equivalent to between 4º and 5º Baumé". (Degrees Baumé: Scale used to measure the sugar in the must in order to determine when fermentation is interrupted).
The most critical point is the issue of Moquegua and the hydration of the pisco, which is prohibited in the 2011 regulations. Moquegua justifies its elaboration based on the technical issue but not on the historical issue: there is no document at the moment that sustains that this custom or tradition has been in force for at least 100 years; we all know that in the world the majority of distillates are hydrated to reach the required degree, in the case of pisco it's not allowed. In my opinion the solution has to be hand in hand with the Association of Pisco Producers of Moquegua. A professor who knows the subject tells me that hydration in spirits should not scare us and that in the specific case of pisco, a category "hydrated piscos" and "piscos made from pure grape juice" could be created. In Mexico, tequila distilled from agave shows 100% Agave on the label and those that don't show this definition are blends, the consumer will decide which prefers. Another valid alternative would be to create a Appelation of Origin for this type of spirit.
It's important to point out that Moquegua's piscos have won regional and national competitions, tasters, have not found any differences. In addition, today we know that there are producers who hydrate their piscos and there are some who distill table grapes, incredible! This tells us that it's not exclusive to Moquegua. In another article I mentioned the issue of aguapié, a firewater made from the pomace that is hydrated to achieve a second fermentation and in Ica is sold as Pisco. Finally, Dr. Ray Meloni from Indecopi's Distinctive Signs gave us a brief talk on the scope of the proposal for the modification of the regulation, categorically mentioning: "historically pisco is not hydrated and will not be hydrated".
Another point was the framework law to be modified:
It will be mandatory to belong to the Regulatory Council of the Pisco Appelation of Origin, each producer will contribute their registration fee and monthly fees that the Regulatory Council will indicate based on what they produce, the one who produces more will contribute more. This measure will achieve the sustainability of the Regulatory Council of the Pisco Appellation of Origin.
To determine the technical part of the proposal presented for the modification of the regulation that is currently suspended. Dr. Meloni also indicated that he has visited all the pisco producing areas informing that all the communication from the public sector, Indecopi, Mincetur, Conapisco, Cancillería, Promperu, etc. will be through the Regulatory Council of the Pisco Appelation of Origin. Elections, have been called to elect the new board of directors of the Regulatory Council of the Pisco Appellation of Origin for May of this year.
Till next time!
Livio Pastorino Wagner
Sommelier, Pisco Specialist & Taster
Taster Register CRDO-Pisco 2020 No. RCO-034-2011
@elmagozurdo
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